Guest House Chez Jacques happened to have a vacancy, with one caveat... I would be the only non-Italian in the place. Bellisimo! I pack up my tent and say au revoir to my new friends. The room is nice and clean, the price includes breakfast, and the location couldn't be better. It takes less than a minute to walk to the beach and there are a few restaurants and shops just down the little street as well. Overall a wonderful, peaceful atmosphere and I feel immediately welcome by both Italian #1, Italian #2 and Snow (the hosts of Chez Jacques). My first night there Italian #1 invited me to a birthday party on the beach – his friend's daughter is turning 8. There are about 30 people sitting out on the beach enjoying the night as the children celebrate with games, cake and lanterns. A beautiful evening and a big welcome to Tamarin. The next day I set out for Black River Gorges National Park for a bit of trekking, which was a convenient 10 minute drive on the scooter. I chose the Macchabee View Point hike which takes me through dense forest, over a few streams, and straight uphill where I had a great view of the gorges and the sea. After 12km, I had enough and head back to Chez Jacques. Italian #1 is in the kitchen, and asks if I'd like to join the group for dinner. How can I say no? I sat down to dinner with Italians #1-9 and we enjoyed bruschetta, grilled dorado, lady fingers, and a little vino, and I try to keep up with the conversation – catching only a word here and there but loving every minute. The week flies by with morning swims, yoga, surfing, rainstorms, delicious pulpo, linguine, fruit, vanilla tea, walks with Snow, noodles on the beach, and learning Italian at home and French outside. One day I took a tour of the Chamerel Falls and 7 Coloured Earth – a bit touristy but it was beautiful. Another day I went to see the 'world's largest Shiva statue' which was quite impressive, and also stopped by the Casela Nature Park which was more of a zoo. But mostly, I enjoyed the meals, vibes, and waves in Tamarin! Its a place with a great soul, and I was very lucky to find Guest House Chez Jacques and it's wonderful hosts and guests!
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The ride back to Mahebourg was a breeze and once again I checked into Bamboo. That night I got an invite from a Couchsurfer living in Tamarin to go camping on the beach with her and some friends the next day. I was committed to witnessing the Cavadee celebration with the Bamboo crew, but I said yes hoping it was an easy ride across the island. We woke up early to prepare for the Cavadee celebrations and Reshma had outfits picked out for all of her females guests. The procession began a bit later than normal, around 11 am, so the sun was blazing... which meant those making the pilgrimage to the temple had to suffer barefoot on the hot roads. A truck went ahead spraying water on the street, but this did nothing for those in the back of the line. There are harnessed men, women in trance, the faithful – pulling their cavadee and moving with effort and determination to the Home of Muruga. Many have chains fixed by hooks clawed into their skin to pull the small wheeled altars, green lemons hanging from their skins and other 'vels', or sharp needles, pricked through their skin. All of this and ten days of fasting – a real showing of faith. After the last offering passed by, I sped back to Bamboo to pack up and head west towards Le Morne. As soon as I get on the road I realize it will be a long day – most of the country is out in the streets celebrating Cavadee, making it slow going through every town. It is a gorgeous drive along the south coast though, and someone is always around to point you in the right direction. I pull up to Le Morne beach and am blown away – it's beautiful. I locate the couchsurfer and her friends as they are starting to barbeque – good timing. A nice crew, mostly from France and a few local Mauritians, all living and working in Mauritius – I feel lucky to be included and try very hard to understand French! Just as we're getting cooking, a storm blows in and we decide to move along and try to find another spot out of the rain. Without much of a choice, we start the procession of 4 cars following me on my little scooter as I am pelted by the rain. I am thankful that my new friends are helping to keep me safe as we go – probably up there in my top 10 most uncomfortable scooter rides! We end up on Tamarin public beach where the rain has stopped and others have already started a big bonfire. The neighbors even have a fire thrower. Tents are pitched, food is brought out, and we enjoy a great night on the beach. I wake up in my little green tent to a gorgeous sea view, and dive right into the sea. I return to find my new friends making a picnic breakfast – I could get used to this place. They are making plans for the day, but I am content and decide to spend more time in Tamarin – it has a great vibe. Guest House Chez Jacques came highly recommended, so I called the manager and explain that I'm currently camping on the beach, but would like to check out his place. “Are you standing next to a green tent?”, he asks in his Italian accent. Startled, I look to my left and there he is walking my way. Laughing, I hang up the phone and walk on down the beach to meet him. Yes, I think it might be a sign! I awake to the sounds of the river and the pigeons outside my window rearranging their nest. Here I am in Mauritius, ready to start again. My first home was Le Bamboo guesthouse in Mahebourg, a colorful working class town with lots of character. Mauritius has a population of roughly 1.2 million people. It is multicultural and religiously diverse, with people of Indian descent (Indo-Mauritian), Franco-Mauritians, Creoles, and Sino-Mauritians. It made for a great environment and diverse dining options! On the terrace of the guest house I met a South African couple that offered to take me around the town – the man was going out anyway. Off we went – me to get my bearings (and a SIM card), him to buy some cake. The sun is blaring, so my gracious guide offers his umbrella for some shade. The first thing I notice along the streets are all of the snacks. I love snacks. Noodles, samosa, pineapple popsicles, pickled fruits, dumplings.... Yum! After our errands, we walked down to check out the waterfront. There were vendors, small shops, a temple, and people sitting and enjoying the gorgeous view of the mountains and the stunning blue water. There were a couple of other solo travelers, and one was a South African guy just off an oil rig stopping over on his way home. I mentioned I was going to rent a scooter, so he joined me in the quest. We found a local guy that just happened to have 2 left for 500 rupees a day (a bit high we came to find out). I stayed 5 nights in Le Bamboo (900R/night including breakfast), and got to know a great family. Each day I had breakfast on the terrace with other guests, and during the day I took my rented scooter out to explore the area. Dinners were also spent on the terrace, enjoying delicious Mauritian recipes out of Reshma's kitchen. I explored Blue Bay, went snorkeling in the Marine Park from a glass bottom boat, drove through fields of sugar cane, snuck into a few fancy resorts just to have a look, and drove around searching for the perfect samosa :) After a few days it was time to explore so I packed and took the scooter to the north. The South African joined, and off we went along the coastal road to the north. It is a beautiful drive up the east coast of Mauritius, and after stopping for snacks, swims, and photo opportunities it took us 4 hours to get to Grand Baie. We started looking for accomodation, and the first place we came across was a nice guest house run by a Canadian. They had no clean rooms, so they made a call and sent us on to the Auberge Miko where Vivek and Lena were waiting. It couldn't have worked out better. For 800 R per night I had my own studio apartment with a small kitchen, dining table, queen bed and balcony. I decided to stay 4 nights. Grand Baie is much more commercial and touristy, which meant more bars, restaurants, water sports, and traffic, but it was a welcome change after Mahebourg. The first night was spent at The Beach House, where they had a band and windows that opened up to the beach. A nice welcome to Grand Baie! The next day I discovered the stunning beaches, with turquoise water and white sand. Mon Choisy & La Cuvette became my 2 favorites. Noodles on the beach in Mon Choisy, and swimming in the cove at La Cuvette. There is a South African owned bar, the Patch and Parrot, so it's not surprising I ended up there with the South African. We made new friends, but it was time to drive back south. The South African was returning home to his family, and I wanted to witness the festival of Cavadee down in Mahebourg. Back down the coastal road, this time fully confident in our navigation. Although I had a feeling I'd be seeing the north one more time... After sad goodbyes with American #3 in Cape Town, I was off to Mauritius via Joburg. First flight was no problem, but customs at JNB commandeered my passport and led me to the other side of the airport - I have overstayed my visa by 2 days. I'm led into a room too small for the number of customs officials hanging out. I'm told I have to pay a fine of 2000 Rand before I can return to South Africa. Ok - by this point my flight to Mauritius is boarding, so after signing my life away off I go! It's a red eye, so I get to Mauritius around 4am in the cover of darkness. The Air Mauritius staff is cheerful and I'm exhausted but excited for a new adventure. We arrive, and I queue up for Immigration. Having chosen Mauritius on a total whim, I only made sure I didn't need to apply for a Visa in advance. I walk up to the Mauritian official and he inquires about my return flight. I inform him that I will be staying no longer than 5 or 6 weeks, but haven't yet decided on my next destination. Ooooh I pushed a wrong button! Red flags go up, and I am suddenly removed from the line and placed on the side to watch the rest of my flight enter the country. The man summons a flight company, and after 1 hour I purchase 1 flight to Madagascar via a very tired Air Mauritius officer. Ok let's go! Oh wait, that isn't enough! The officer is adamant - he has to make sure I'm going all the way back to the US and won't let me through until I prove it. My nerves are shot, so I lose my cool and tell him that I am leaving his country and its none of his business whether or not I go home. Fuel meet fire. I spend the next 2 hours with 15 immigration police officers trying to 'fix' this situation. Meanwhile, my guest house transport has been waiting for me and has finally given up and thrown away that sign with my name in capital letters. Finally, after purchase of 3 airline tickets I am allowed into the country. The sun is up and the airport is empty, save my lonely backpack by the turnstile. I hop into a taxi and go off to find Le Bamboo and make amends with my new hosts. Despite ruining their morning, they insist on feeding me and making me feel immediately at home. I spend the next few hours talking with flight companies to cancel my overpriced purchases and the passing out, excited to wake up and start over with Mauritius! The road trip began on Christmas Day, with a sad farewell to American #2 and the end of a chapter. A chapter full of love, adventure, hope, challenges, and thousands of miles. Without American #2, I may have never plunged into this adventure, and for that I am grateful. As he walked toward the airport gate, I drove off with American #3 into the warm, bright day in silence towards Oudtshoorn. After a few U-turns, we found Route 62 and had an incredible drive. Driving on the left – this time with a manual – was tricky that first day but luckily the roads were pretty empty. We stopped in small town and had a great Christmas lunch in the only place open. There were a few hair-raising moments, but we made it to Paradise Backpackers in time for a sundowner. There was a nice crowd at the hostel bar, and Vickus the bartender supplied plenty of entertainment. Popcorn and snooker replaced our Christmas goose, but I felt lucky to be with a close friend. The next morning after breakfast in the cute downtown, we were off again in our blue Kia Picanto. Our goal was Addo, but the twists and turns of Route 62 were a bit much and once we hit the highway we decided to pull off in Jeffrey's Bay. As American #3 drove, I frantically called around for accomodation and there was nothing to be had. High season had come to the Garden Route... So we decide to stop in the first place we see to inquire about a room. Cristal Cove proved lucky, and a couple happened to leave one day early opening up a room just for the night. Excellent! Jeffrey's Bay was lovely but crowded due to the holidays. We had a nice walk on the beach, a swim (brrrr!), and took advantage of the kitchen facilities. It was great to be at the sea and we took advantage the next morning before setting off for Addo and the Orange Elephant. After getting lost in Port Elizabeth for what felt like eternity, we found the Elephant - a cute place, with a nice bar and garden. We took an early morning safari tour of the park, which was overrun with German tourists wanting to stop for every dung beetle... but nonetheless the elephants never cease to impress and American #3 got to see them up close and personal. After our tour we set off for Cintsa – the gateway to the Wild Coast. Holiday-goers took all of the beds in the area, so we decided to hit the local sporting goods store to buy tents and sleeping bags. The best idea we had yet! The N2 was a gorgeous drive with plenty to see along the way. Buccaneers had camping space, so that's where we spent our New Years. It was heaven on earth. We liked it so much, we stayed 6 nights! The campsite is gorgeous – set among the forest next to the beach. There is a pool, volleyball court, and the beach is a 5 minute walk through the forest and over the stream. Our fellow campers were mostly South Africans on holiday, which made for a great experience. We were taught the proper use of Howzit, Mooi, Bru, Brah, Oak, Belter and lekke (important terms!), and how to make the perfect brandy and coke. On New Years Eve there was a theme party, and of course a braii where we set off chinese lanterns. The other days were filled with sand castle building, nightly braiis, and time on the beach. We even ran into Vickus - from Oudtshoorn- there on his holiday. Small world. After 7 days it was time to go to Tsitsikamma for some more natural beauty. We stayed in Storms River Village at the Tube'n Axe. Again our tents came in handy for our last minute planning, and we lucked into garden camping spots. Our destination was hiking in the Tsitsikamma National Park, and we waited one hour to get in. It's a beautiful place, and it'd be a great place to camp. We chose the waterfall hike, and off we went. We didn't make it 2 km when I decided to admire some trees along the path – slipped on some roots and down I went with a sprained ankle. Excruciating pain followed, and down I stayed. That waterfall was looking very far away... After a few minutes and we tried to go on. American #3 found me a walking stick, and I hobbled the best I could until we found the boulder path – ok now we just climb on the rocks... I gave it a shot, but the going was tough. We came across a rock pool and that is where we decided to stay. The waterfall would have to wait until next time! The rock pool was incredible, and worth the pain! Next stop were the suspension bridges – another short hike but this time there were supports to hold... Terrible timing on the ankle, but they were worth the hobble as well. What a beautiful spot and somewhere I'd like to return to tackle the bungee jump with healthy ankles! Cape Town was our final destination after 2,300 km. After a long day on the N2 we stayed one more night at the Green Elephant, and enjoyed dinner in Sea Point with a friend from Buccaneers. The day of departure we had a short downtown tour and a great Ethiopian lunch before packing up and saying our sad farewells. What a great road trip that gave me a new appreciation for the beauty of both South Africa and good friendship. American #3 was back to winter in the US, and I was off to my next destination – somewhere I knew nothing about... Mauritius! I feel lucky to arrive back in Cape Town on the eve of Nelson Mandela's funeral. He was laid to rest in his home village of Qunu, but Capetonians came out in droves to mourn his passing and celebrate his legacy. Events took place the entire week, and the day of the funeral screens were set up right in front of City Hall. People sat together and watched all morning, mostly silent with the intermittent cheers of pride. It was incredible to be a part of it all and be in South Africa to celebrate such a revolutionary figure. There were many who thought Madiba's passing would drive people apart, but at that moment it felt like we were all in it together. It was a great way to begin another week in Cape Town. American #2 & I stayed once again in Observatory, but moved over to the Green Elephant to mix things up. Mavis made it feel like home :) Over the week, we explored the city. Table Mountain was closed due to wind most days, but the drive up was gorgeous. Around the peninsula is Camp's Bay - a bit fancy but it's a bustling part of town right on the beach. Long Street seems to be always busy if you want nightlife, and retail is all over City Bowl and along the Harbor. The District 6 museum downtown shares the stories of people who lived in the Sixth Municipal District of Cape Town in 1867. Originally established as a mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, laborers, and immigrants, this all changed during apartheid. In 1966 it was declared a white area under the Group Areas Act of 1950, and by 1982, the life of the community was over. More than 60 000 people were forcibly removed to barren outlying areas aptly known as the Cape Flats, and their houses in District Six were flattened by bulldozers. The District Six Museum, established in December 1994, works with the memories of the District Six experience and with that of forced removals more generally. Worth a visit for the touching exhibits and learning experience. Back in Obs, there was live music at the Armchair, mexican food at Panchos, poached eggs for breakfast (with lots of rocket of course), and Trash Caberet at Desperados with their great live show. That, and catching up on sleep in that delightful real bed. And, on December 23, American #3 arrived for some adventures. We were off on another road trip Christmas Day, but first the 3 of us caught the Christmas Eve showing of Scrooge at the Baxter Theatre. Marc Lottering and the cast were hilarious and the children's choir sang beautifully. It was one of the best performances I've ever seen and I'd love to make it an annual Christmas tradition. Cape Town, I'll be back! It's dark by the time the taxi pulls up to Observatory Backpackers. Reception is friendly, the kitchen is stocked, and the room is clean. And there is a big bed, and a door that closes! Now, this may sound very simple, but after 3 months of living in a tent and riding in a Land Rover, this is heaven. Who knew a room with a door and a bed could make me so happy! The next day American #2 and I took a walk around the neighborhood, and instantly felt at home. Obs is a diverse neighborhood, near the University of Cape Town so it is abuzz with student life. There are plenty of restaurants, retail, and even life music within walking distance. Hooray! We found a music shop, which thankfully had 2 new purple egg shakers just waiting for me, and even hung out for a bit, testing them out with a local musician - too much fun. After 2 days in Obs, it was time to see the area. Three of us rented a car and took off. It was my first experience driving on the left, and the nerves showed! Especially when I would mistook the windshield wipers for the blinker! No worries - off we go! We decided on Stellenbosch, with a stop at the beach on the way. Gordon's Bay was pretty close, so we took a dip. No wonder only the children were swimming - seemingly unaware of the frigid temps. Brrr! The drive to Stellenbosch was lovely, with wineries all along the roads. We stayed at the Stumble Inn, right near the center of town. There are 2 buildings, and we were lucky to get the one with the pool. The town was cute, but there was definitely an air of pretension I hadn't felt anywhere else so far along the way. Pinkies up! The next day it was time to explore the wineries. There are a myriad of choices, but we decided to rent bikes and explore the region on 2 wheels. American #2, the German, and I got a map and off we went. Well, the first winery was closed. The 2nd winery on the map wasn't a winery. The third was also closed. So we kept biking - 2 hours, 20+km in hilly countryside, and still no wine. When we finally came upon Mont Marie, we were famished and very thirsty so we got a bottle of white and settled in to rest. There was no food, however, so as soon as the bottle was finished we kept going. We made it to Dornier for lunch, with the final tasting at Waterford Estate for a wine and chocolate pairing. Nice end to a lovely day, although none of us wanted to face the return trip! The next day it is back to Cape Town via Simon's Town, Cape of Good Hope, the African penguins, and cliff road R30. Simon's Town is a bustling little town, with a cute harbor where I enjoyed tasty fish & chips. There is also a penguin colony close by, and if you buy a ticket you can even swim with them in the lagoon. Cape of Good Hope was beautiful, and somewhere I've always wanted to go. There were many tourists, but we hiked to the lighthouse and even got a free cablecar ride down the mountain. After exploring the National Park, we took the scenic route north and ended up on Chapman's Peak Drive. It is gorgeous, but a bit hair raising if you feel like a new driver! But we returned to Observatory Backpackers in one piece, ready for more of Cape Town. And we're off! Or not. We begin the trip with the South African saying “Let's go run out of gas!” The gas station in Ais Ais is out of petrol. Wow. So it is only a matter of time until we putter out – let's see how far we can go! Well as it turns out, not very far. I'm sitting in the very back of the Landie, so all I can do is watch the others try to flag down assistance. I'm looking out the back window as a very large truck is getting closer, closer... not slowing down … he passes us on his phone. Wait! He's coming back – very large truck in reverse. Turns out to be a very nice South African guy driving potatoes from Angola to Cape Town and back. Talk about a long day on the road! He gives us quite a few liters and goes on his way – won't even except a few Rand. We make it to the next gas station, and we find the trucker there waiting for us to make sure we made it... wow! So nice. Full tank, ice cream, snacks and we're back on the road. I turn the back of the Landie into a cinema and hunker down for the long haul. It's after dark by the time we arrive, but dinner is ready and another real bed awaits! We stay 6 days in Kuruman and enjoy a farm party, dinner out, wifi at the Spur or Wimpy, my birthday pizza, and some much needed down time. Kuruman is known as the “fountain of Christianity” in Africa due to the flowing springs of Die Oog, and its missionary history of the Moffatt Mission. I don't foresee a return trip to Kuruman, but the hospitality was wonderful. During these few days I also had some time to prep for the next chapter. The band was breaking up – the South African was no longer driving to Cape Town and the others were off on their own road trip north. So, Plan B was to drive to Kimberley and fly to Cape Town on South African Airways. Much faster route! It was a sad goodbye after 3 months and more than 16,000 km bonding in the Landie, but I am confident that wasn't our last trip. The 2 Americans had places to see. Off to Cape Town! After a gorgeous drive we reached Fish River Canyon. The tents went up quickly so we could hop in the car to catch sunset over the canyons. Spectacular. The next time I'd love to stay a few days to hike the area. The campsite was quiet and peaceful, and I awoke to the chatter of birds and monkeys. After a hearty South African breakfast, a short but lovely drive around the canyons led us to the Ai Ais Hot Springs. Ai-Ais means 'burning water' in the local Nama language and refers to the sulfurous thermal hot water springs found at the base of the mountain peaks at the southern end of Fish River Canyon. The water is fed into a large outdoor swimming pool and smaller pools within a resort, and is rich in sulphur, chloride, fluoride and said to be good for anyone suffering from rheumatism. Well, when we arrive the is pool empty - they just happen to be doing some cleaning. We set up camp anyway, and take a look inside. It feels very much like a resort, but there are a few pools both hot and cold and they are delightful. After a dip, I arrive at the camp site for a big Sunday lunch. Turns out the South African has been busy! After our meal the 5 of us go for a sunset hike in the Fish River along the dry sand bed. We see baboons, a few small fish, bats, and birds. A nice way to end the day. By the next morning the water in the giant pool is mid-calf so in we go. While it is not the natural hot springs I had imagined, the water is very warm and feels revitalizing and healthful. Now – back on the road – another 665 km to Kuruman! Only 350 km to Lüderitz from Brukkaros - a nice short drive for a change. Now that there are 3 of us, I commander the backseat and stretch out to relax. As I lie back, there is a shooting pain in my shoulder... Yikes! I look down to see a giant yellow wasp. I calmly tell my companions that I've been stung, and the South African promptly pulls over, grabs the med kit, and proceeds to extract the giant stinger from my shoulder like a pro. Not 2 minutes later, we're back on the road. Pain subsides some, and I'm very happy with his reaction time! The rest of the drive was pretty uneventful in comparison. A stop in Aus was planned, but there wasn't much there so we carried on. We arrive just before dark and start looking for a place to stay. We happen across Element Riders Backpackers, who doesn't have camping only rooms... Real bed #5! I say yes please! It's windy and chilly in Luderitz, and at this point in the trip my tent-tolerance is dropping! Element is a very laid back place, and the owner, Rainer, is an avid kite surfer. Highly recommend. It was Thanksgiving when we arrived, so went out to search for a nice dinner. We found one of the only restaurants in town - Ritzies – where we wait 2 hours for frozen fish but have plenty of time to talk about how thankful we are we made it that far :) A visit to Dias Point is worth it, where you can make the treacherous climb to see the Dias Cross or sit below and watch the waves crash against the cliffs. It is lovely, and there happens to be a cute little coffee shop with excellent chocolate cake. There is also a spot to see a colony of penguins, if you are lucky not to blow away. You can also see oryx, flamingoes, and springbok on the way to Agate Beach where you can go treasure hunting - and perhaps come away with a lovely new diamond. We tried! We end up staying 6 days in Lüderitz for no concrete reason. I was enjoying a real bed, we all made some friends, and there was Diaz Coffee Shop around the corner with delicious toasties on homemade bread. Civilization was a welcome change. One evening a group of us even stopped by a church service to check out the famous Pastor Isaac Lucas. Check out my video clip "Holy Ghost Naked Wire". While at Element, we met some great fellow travelers - two of whom ended up joining us for our drive to South Africa. This couple had purchased a car in Cape Town to travel around southern Africa. They had gotten nearly to Luderitz when it broke down, so they had it towed to town. Each time they went to get it, something else was broken. Finally - the day it was supposed to be ready - they were told it needed a new engine. They were still stuck in Luderitz! The South African felt bad the couple, and generously offered them his other car... incredible! It is in Kuruman, about 1,000 km east, so we'll have some time to get to know each other :) We finally leave Luderitz for Fish River Canyon ~ once again with a full Landie :) 1 South African, 2 Americans, 1 German, and 1 Brit! |
ABOUTCombining a passion for travel, the desire to make a difference & a love of maps, MaggieMaps was born. PRESSUnless otherwise noted, all prose, poetry, maps and photography posted on this blog are Copyright 2013 Maggie Maps
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