After sad goodbyes with American #3 in Cape Town, I was off to Mauritius via Joburg. First flight was no problem, but customs at JNB commandeered my passport and led me to the other side of the airport - I have overstayed my visa by 2 days. I'm led into a room too small for the number of customs officials hanging out. I'm told I have to pay a fine of 2000 Rand before I can return to South Africa. Ok - by this point my flight to Mauritius is boarding, so after signing my life away off I go! It's a red eye, so I get to Mauritius around 4am in the cover of darkness. The Air Mauritius staff is cheerful and I'm exhausted but excited for a new adventure. We arrive, and I queue up for Immigration. Having chosen Mauritius on a total whim, I only made sure I didn't need to apply for a Visa in advance. I walk up to the Mauritian official and he inquires about my return flight. I inform him that I will be staying no longer than 5 or 6 weeks, but haven't yet decided on my next destination. Ooooh I pushed a wrong button! Red flags go up, and I am suddenly removed from the line and placed on the side to watch the rest of my flight enter the country. The man summons a flight company, and after 1 hour I purchase 1 flight to Madagascar via a very tired Air Mauritius officer. Ok let's go! Oh wait, that isn't enough! The officer is adamant - he has to make sure I'm going all the way back to the US and won't let me through until I prove it. My nerves are shot, so I lose my cool and tell him that I am leaving his country and its none of his business whether or not I go home. Fuel meet fire. I spend the next 2 hours with 15 immigration police officers trying to 'fix' this situation. Meanwhile, my guest house transport has been waiting for me and has finally given up and thrown away that sign with my name in capital letters. Finally, after purchase of 3 airline tickets I am allowed into the country. The sun is up and the airport is empty, save my lonely backpack by the turnstile. I hop into a taxi and go off to find Le Bamboo and make amends with my new hosts. Despite ruining their morning, they insist on feeding me and making me feel immediately at home. I spend the next few hours talking with flight companies to cancel my overpriced purchases and the passing out, excited to wake up and start over with Mauritius!
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The road trip began on Christmas Day, with a sad farewell to American #2 and the end of a chapter. A chapter full of love, adventure, hope, challenges, and thousands of miles. Without American #2, I may have never plunged into this adventure, and for that I am grateful. As he walked toward the airport gate, I drove off with American #3 into the warm, bright day in silence towards Oudtshoorn. After a few U-turns, we found Route 62 and had an incredible drive. Driving on the left – this time with a manual – was tricky that first day but luckily the roads were pretty empty. We stopped in small town and had a great Christmas lunch in the only place open. There were a few hair-raising moments, but we made it to Paradise Backpackers in time for a sundowner. There was a nice crowd at the hostel bar, and Vickus the bartender supplied plenty of entertainment. Popcorn and snooker replaced our Christmas goose, but I felt lucky to be with a close friend. The next morning after breakfast in the cute downtown, we were off again in our blue Kia Picanto. Our goal was Addo, but the twists and turns of Route 62 were a bit much and once we hit the highway we decided to pull off in Jeffrey's Bay. As American #3 drove, I frantically called around for accomodation and there was nothing to be had. High season had come to the Garden Route... So we decide to stop in the first place we see to inquire about a room. Cristal Cove proved lucky, and a couple happened to leave one day early opening up a room just for the night. Excellent! Jeffrey's Bay was lovely but crowded due to the holidays. We had a nice walk on the beach, a swim (brrrr!), and took advantage of the kitchen facilities. It was great to be at the sea and we took advantage the next morning before setting off for Addo and the Orange Elephant. After getting lost in Port Elizabeth for what felt like eternity, we found the Elephant - a cute place, with a nice bar and garden. We took an early morning safari tour of the park, which was overrun with German tourists wanting to stop for every dung beetle... but nonetheless the elephants never cease to impress and American #3 got to see them up close and personal. After our tour we set off for Cintsa – the gateway to the Wild Coast. Holiday-goers took all of the beds in the area, so we decided to hit the local sporting goods store to buy tents and sleeping bags. The best idea we had yet! The N2 was a gorgeous drive with plenty to see along the way. Buccaneers had camping space, so that's where we spent our New Years. It was heaven on earth. We liked it so much, we stayed 6 nights! The campsite is gorgeous – set among the forest next to the beach. There is a pool, volleyball court, and the beach is a 5 minute walk through the forest and over the stream. Our fellow campers were mostly South Africans on holiday, which made for a great experience. We were taught the proper use of Howzit, Mooi, Bru, Brah, Oak, Belter and lekke (important terms!), and how to make the perfect brandy and coke. On New Years Eve there was a theme party, and of course a braii where we set off chinese lanterns. The other days were filled with sand castle building, nightly braiis, and time on the beach. We even ran into Vickus - from Oudtshoorn- there on his holiday. Small world. After 7 days it was time to go to Tsitsikamma for some more natural beauty. We stayed in Storms River Village at the Tube'n Axe. Again our tents came in handy for our last minute planning, and we lucked into garden camping spots. Our destination was hiking in the Tsitsikamma National Park, and we waited one hour to get in. It's a beautiful place, and it'd be a great place to camp. We chose the waterfall hike, and off we went. We didn't make it 2 km when I decided to admire some trees along the path – slipped on some roots and down I went with a sprained ankle. Excruciating pain followed, and down I stayed. That waterfall was looking very far away... After a few minutes and we tried to go on. American #3 found me a walking stick, and I hobbled the best I could until we found the boulder path – ok now we just climb on the rocks... I gave it a shot, but the going was tough. We came across a rock pool and that is where we decided to stay. The waterfall would have to wait until next time! The rock pool was incredible, and worth the pain! Next stop were the suspension bridges – another short hike but this time there were supports to hold... Terrible timing on the ankle, but they were worth the hobble as well. What a beautiful spot and somewhere I'd like to return to tackle the bungee jump with healthy ankles! Cape Town was our final destination after 2,300 km. After a long day on the N2 we stayed one more night at the Green Elephant, and enjoyed dinner in Sea Point with a friend from Buccaneers. The day of departure we had a short downtown tour and a great Ethiopian lunch before packing up and saying our sad farewells. What a great road trip that gave me a new appreciation for the beauty of both South Africa and good friendship. American #3 was back to winter in the US, and I was off to my next destination – somewhere I knew nothing about... Mauritius! I feel lucky to arrive back in Cape Town on the eve of Nelson Mandela's funeral. He was laid to rest in his home village of Qunu, but Capetonians came out in droves to mourn his passing and celebrate his legacy. Events took place the entire week, and the day of the funeral screens were set up right in front of City Hall. People sat together and watched all morning, mostly silent with the intermittent cheers of pride. It was incredible to be a part of it all and be in South Africa to celebrate such a revolutionary figure. There were many who thought Madiba's passing would drive people apart, but at that moment it felt like we were all in it together. It was a great way to begin another week in Cape Town. American #2 & I stayed once again in Observatory, but moved over to the Green Elephant to mix things up. Mavis made it feel like home :) Over the week, we explored the city. Table Mountain was closed due to wind most days, but the drive up was gorgeous. Around the peninsula is Camp's Bay - a bit fancy but it's a bustling part of town right on the beach. Long Street seems to be always busy if you want nightlife, and retail is all over City Bowl and along the Harbor. The District 6 museum downtown shares the stories of people who lived in the Sixth Municipal District of Cape Town in 1867. Originally established as a mixed community of freed slaves, merchants, artisans, laborers, and immigrants, this all changed during apartheid. In 1966 it was declared a white area under the Group Areas Act of 1950, and by 1982, the life of the community was over. More than 60 000 people were forcibly removed to barren outlying areas aptly known as the Cape Flats, and their houses in District Six were flattened by bulldozers. The District Six Museum, established in December 1994, works with the memories of the District Six experience and with that of forced removals more generally. Worth a visit for the touching exhibits and learning experience. Back in Obs, there was live music at the Armchair, mexican food at Panchos, poached eggs for breakfast (with lots of rocket of course), and Trash Caberet at Desperados with their great live show. That, and catching up on sleep in that delightful real bed. And, on December 23, American #3 arrived for some adventures. We were off on another road trip Christmas Day, but first the 3 of us caught the Christmas Eve showing of Scrooge at the Baxter Theatre. Marc Lottering and the cast were hilarious and the children's choir sang beautifully. It was one of the best performances I've ever seen and I'd love to make it an annual Christmas tradition. Cape Town, I'll be back! It's dark by the time the taxi pulls up to Observatory Backpackers. Reception is friendly, the kitchen is stocked, and the room is clean. And there is a big bed, and a door that closes! Now, this may sound very simple, but after 3 months of living in a tent and riding in a Land Rover, this is heaven. Who knew a room with a door and a bed could make me so happy! The next day American #2 and I took a walk around the neighborhood, and instantly felt at home. Obs is a diverse neighborhood, near the University of Cape Town so it is abuzz with student life. There are plenty of restaurants, retail, and even life music within walking distance. Hooray! We found a music shop, which thankfully had 2 new purple egg shakers just waiting for me, and even hung out for a bit, testing them out with a local musician - too much fun. After 2 days in Obs, it was time to see the area. Three of us rented a car and took off. It was my first experience driving on the left, and the nerves showed! Especially when I would mistook the windshield wipers for the blinker! No worries - off we go! We decided on Stellenbosch, with a stop at the beach on the way. Gordon's Bay was pretty close, so we took a dip. No wonder only the children were swimming - seemingly unaware of the frigid temps. Brrr! The drive to Stellenbosch was lovely, with wineries all along the roads. We stayed at the Stumble Inn, right near the center of town. There are 2 buildings, and we were lucky to get the one with the pool. The town was cute, but there was definitely an air of pretension I hadn't felt anywhere else so far along the way. Pinkies up! The next day it was time to explore the wineries. There are a myriad of choices, but we decided to rent bikes and explore the region on 2 wheels. American #2, the German, and I got a map and off we went. Well, the first winery was closed. The 2nd winery on the map wasn't a winery. The third was also closed. So we kept biking - 2 hours, 20+km in hilly countryside, and still no wine. When we finally came upon Mont Marie, we were famished and very thirsty so we got a bottle of white and settled in to rest. There was no food, however, so as soon as the bottle was finished we kept going. We made it to Dornier for lunch, with the final tasting at Waterford Estate for a wine and chocolate pairing. Nice end to a lovely day, although none of us wanted to face the return trip! The next day it is back to Cape Town via Simon's Town, Cape of Good Hope, the African penguins, and cliff road R30. Simon's Town is a bustling little town, with a cute harbor where I enjoyed tasty fish & chips. There is also a penguin colony close by, and if you buy a ticket you can even swim with them in the lagoon. Cape of Good Hope was beautiful, and somewhere I've always wanted to go. There were many tourists, but we hiked to the lighthouse and even got a free cablecar ride down the mountain. After exploring the National Park, we took the scenic route north and ended up on Chapman's Peak Drive. It is gorgeous, but a bit hair raising if you feel like a new driver! But we returned to Observatory Backpackers in one piece, ready for more of Cape Town. And we're off! Or not. We begin the trip with the South African saying “Let's go run out of gas!” The gas station in Ais Ais is out of petrol. Wow. So it is only a matter of time until we putter out – let's see how far we can go! Well as it turns out, not very far. I'm sitting in the very back of the Landie, so all I can do is watch the others try to flag down assistance. I'm looking out the back window as a very large truck is getting closer, closer... not slowing down … he passes us on his phone. Wait! He's coming back – very large truck in reverse. Turns out to be a very nice South African guy driving potatoes from Angola to Cape Town and back. Talk about a long day on the road! He gives us quite a few liters and goes on his way – won't even except a few Rand. We make it to the next gas station, and we find the trucker there waiting for us to make sure we made it... wow! So nice. Full tank, ice cream, snacks and we're back on the road. I turn the back of the Landie into a cinema and hunker down for the long haul. It's after dark by the time we arrive, but dinner is ready and another real bed awaits! We stay 6 days in Kuruman and enjoy a farm party, dinner out, wifi at the Spur or Wimpy, my birthday pizza, and some much needed down time. Kuruman is known as the “fountain of Christianity” in Africa due to the flowing springs of Die Oog, and its missionary history of the Moffatt Mission. I don't foresee a return trip to Kuruman, but the hospitality was wonderful. During these few days I also had some time to prep for the next chapter. The band was breaking up – the South African was no longer driving to Cape Town and the others were off on their own road trip north. So, Plan B was to drive to Kimberley and fly to Cape Town on South African Airways. Much faster route! It was a sad goodbye after 3 months and more than 16,000 km bonding in the Landie, but I am confident that wasn't our last trip. The 2 Americans had places to see. Off to Cape Town! After a gorgeous drive we reached Fish River Canyon. The tents went up quickly so we could hop in the car to catch sunset over the canyons. Spectacular. The next time I'd love to stay a few days to hike the area. The campsite was quiet and peaceful, and I awoke to the chatter of birds and monkeys. After a hearty South African breakfast, a short but lovely drive around the canyons led us to the Ai Ais Hot Springs. Ai-Ais means 'burning water' in the local Nama language and refers to the sulfurous thermal hot water springs found at the base of the mountain peaks at the southern end of Fish River Canyon. The water is fed into a large outdoor swimming pool and smaller pools within a resort, and is rich in sulphur, chloride, fluoride and said to be good for anyone suffering from rheumatism. Well, when we arrive the is pool empty - they just happen to be doing some cleaning. We set up camp anyway, and take a look inside. It feels very much like a resort, but there are a few pools both hot and cold and they are delightful. After a dip, I arrive at the camp site for a big Sunday lunch. Turns out the South African has been busy! After our meal the 5 of us go for a sunset hike in the Fish River along the dry sand bed. We see baboons, a few small fish, bats, and birds. A nice way to end the day. By the next morning the water in the giant pool is mid-calf so in we go. While it is not the natural hot springs I had imagined, the water is very warm and feels revitalizing and healthful. Now – back on the road – another 665 km to Kuruman! We didn't make it very far from Luderitz when we decide to stop and check out the ghost town of Kolmanskop. In 1908 a worker found a diamond while working in this area and showed it to his supervisor, a German railway inspector. After realizing that this area was rich in diamonds, lots of German miners settled in this area and soon after the German government declared a large area as a "Sperrgebiet", starting to exploit the diamond field. Driven by the enormous wealth of the first diamond miners, the residents built the village in the architectural style of a German town, with amenities and institutions including a hospital, ballroom, power station, school, bowling alley, theatre and sport-hall, casino, ice factory and the first x-ray station in the southern hemisphere, as well as the first tram in Africa. There was a railway link to Luderitz. The town declined after World War I when the diamond-field slowly exhausted and was ultimately abandoned in 1954. Now nature is taking over! After Kolmanskop we stopped at a watering hole to try and catch a glimpse of the wild horses. We were lucky to see 2 and some oryx then it was back on the road. Off to Fish River we go! Only 350 km to Lüderitz from Brukkaros - a nice short drive for a change. Now that there are 3 of us, I commander the backseat and stretch out to relax. As I lie back, there is a shooting pain in my shoulder... Yikes! I look down to see a giant yellow wasp. I calmly tell my companions that I've been stung, and the South African promptly pulls over, grabs the med kit, and proceeds to extract the giant stinger from my shoulder like a pro. Not 2 minutes later, we're back on the road. Pain subsides some, and I'm very happy with his reaction time! The rest of the drive was pretty uneventful in comparison. A stop in Aus was planned, but there wasn't much there so we carried on. We arrive just before dark and start looking for a place to stay. We happen across Element Riders Backpackers, who doesn't have camping only rooms... Real bed #5! I say yes please! It's windy and chilly in Luderitz, and at this point in the trip my tent-tolerance is dropping! Element is a very laid back place, and the owner, Rainer, is an avid kite surfer. Highly recommend. It was Thanksgiving when we arrived, so went out to search for a nice dinner. We found one of the only restaurants in town - Ritzies – where we wait 2 hours for frozen fish but have plenty of time to talk about how thankful we are we made it that far :) A visit to Dias Point is worth it, where you can make the treacherous climb to see the Dias Cross or sit below and watch the waves crash against the cliffs. It is lovely, and there happens to be a cute little coffee shop with excellent chocolate cake. There is also a spot to see a colony of penguins, if you are lucky not to blow away. You can also see oryx, flamingoes, and springbok on the way to Agate Beach where you can go treasure hunting - and perhaps come away with a lovely new diamond. We tried! We end up staying 6 days in Lüderitz for no concrete reason. I was enjoying a real bed, we all made some friends, and there was Diaz Coffee Shop around the corner with delicious toasties on homemade bread. Civilization was a welcome change. One evening a group of us even stopped by a church service to check out the famous Pastor Isaac Lucas. Check out my video clip "Holy Ghost Naked Wire". While at Element, we met some great fellow travelers - two of whom ended up joining us for our drive to South Africa. This couple had purchased a car in Cape Town to travel around southern Africa. They had gotten nearly to Luderitz when it broke down, so they had it towed to town. Each time they went to get it, something else was broken. Finally - the day it was supposed to be ready - they were told it needed a new engine. They were still stuck in Luderitz! The South African felt bad the couple, and generously offered them his other car... incredible! It is in Kuruman, about 1,000 km east, so we'll have some time to get to know each other :) We finally leave Luderitz for Fish River Canyon ~ once again with a full Landie :) 1 South African, 2 Americans, 1 German, and 1 Brit! It's time to drive the Koreans to Mariantal - they must take a bus to Cape Town then head home. We pack up and head on our way. Lots of horse and carriages in this part of Namibia. Mariantal isn't quite as far as we anticipated, and we had expected to just stay for the night. No chance – it is too small and a bit creepy. So we hit the store to make some lunch for the Koreans before leaving them at the bus stop. I'm playing chef in the back of the Landie, and it's getting a bit warm. I go to jump out and something goes terribly wrong.... In slow motion I tumble out and catch my foot in the slope of the road. Down she goes, excruciating pain... Sprained ankle. Oh crap. Turns out, Korean #1 is a physical therapist and prescribes ice, elevation, and rest. Yikes. Rest – we're finally going somewhere I can hike! We shall see.... we leave our friends at the local Wimpy and head towards Brukkaros. Brukkaros Mountain is an extinct volcano measuring 1,590 meters at its peak. It is in the form of a ring mountain and was formed when rising magma met ground water, superheated it and blew it up about 80 million years ago. Very exciting. We arrive (per usual) just before sunset. The place is deserted, so we explore. There is one set of campsites below the mountain, but there is also a path climbing up. The Landie goes in low gear and we start climbing. And climbing. Up we go, and there is another site. No electricity or running water, but a killer view so we stay. Great sunset, gorgeous sunrise, and another night without a tent. We wake up to a local man asking for water. Turns out, this is a community run project and he just hiked about 20 km to get our money. Wow. He does that walk every day in this heat – incredible. He tells us that the place used to have many amenities, but locals stole all of the pipes, electric lines, and fixtures so now it is very run down. This is pretty awful, particularly since this is about it for many miles around. The town of Berseba is very small and feels a bit like a military camp. The mountain could be such an asset and it is not being respected. Shame. We also learn that the crater is a short hike away. I wrap my ankle and give it a shot. Very slow going, and loads of rock but we make it. It's lovely, and starting to re-vegetate. But it's getting hot – so we turn back. And get very, very lost. I spent the entire walk looking down and avoiding falling into holes – not navigating. We end up walking/limping twice as far coming back and by the time we reach camp I am ready to sit. For a while! We enjoy a nice breakfast, break camp, and head to the coast to check out Luderitz! I awake to Swakopmund on a Sunday – very quiet, dreary day and the water is 60 degrees. We end up at a pub enjoying a few Windhoeks and watching rugby. A day of rest. Swakop is a nice town, with a German feel. The next day we are off to Sessriem and Sossusvlei to see the dunes and Deadvlei. The Namib landscape is incredible, and we enjoy a pretty uneventful ride. Along the way we made a stop at Moose MacGregor's famed bakery in Solitaire. Best apple pie for thousands of miles :) But that isn't all! In addition to the piece of apple pie as big as my face, we also enjoyed a brownie, blueberry strudel for good measure! The 'town' of Solitaire is a tiny cluster including the bakery, a guest lodge, petrol station, and a general dealer but it is an oasis in the middle of the desert and a great place to stop and refuel. With full bellies we get on the road to find our campsite – Sossusvle Lodge. It's lovely and we are lucky to have a nice big tree to shade us. There is also a pool – right here in the desert – and it feels like a sin to have so much water! I indulge frequently :) We even have a pair of resident owls watching over us. Incredible. The crew is up early the next day to make sunrise at the dunes. What a climb! The dunes are beautiful, and as the sun comes up they are bathed in the most magical light. I could have sat up there all day, but we had Deadvlei to see before the scorching part of the day. We all jump down the dune and back into the Landie. Deadvlei is a bit of a hike, but totally worth it despite the oppressive heat. Deadvlei means 'dead marsh', and it is a graveyard of trees. Petrified in the salt pan, they stand like ancient sentinals in stark contrast to the surrounding dunes. They are believed to be more than 900 years old. I find one with a little bit of shade and curl up for a cat nap before trudging back across the pans. When I awake, I find my friends are doing the same :) It's a magic place, and one I highly recommend. Just be sure to carry some water and cover up from the sun – it's pretty intense! |
ABOUTCombining a passion for travel, the desire to make a difference & a love of maps, MaggieMaps was born. PRESSUnless otherwise noted, all prose, poetry, maps and photography posted on this blog are Copyright 2013 Maggie Maps
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